Monday, August 7, 2023

The Organic Lands of Rajasthan


                   


 


     Rajasthan,The land of diversity

 
 
                Every place has some images etched in the mind of a traveler, some iconic figures that we have constantly spoken about, heard about, and imagined. These are the images that come to mind first when we think about a place. Some places keep these images intact, some turn them upside down, and some take us to a larger canvases with them.
            The image of Rajasthan that is etched in our minds is that of a socio-cultural landscape that is a confluence of history, the grandeur of ancient ruins, the solitude of the Thar Desert, the spiritual paths of Ajmer, and the ascetic demeanor of the darwishes. Rajasthan is for us a land of desert, ancient land, and spiritual land. But beyond all this, Rajasthan is also a land of biodiversity.Rajasthan is a land of contrasts. It is home to the Thar Desert, one of the largest deserts in the world, as well as dense forests that are so thick that the sun's rays cannot penetrate them. The state is also home to the Aravalli Mountains, one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world, and Mount Abu, its highest peak.
             Rajasthan is a land of discovery. There are many hidden gems to be found in the state, from wildlife sanctuaries to natural wonders. Travelers who are willing to explore off the beaten path will be rewarded with unforgettable experiences.  Rajasthan is the largest state in India, and it is a microcosm of India's diversity. "Unity in diversity" is a phrase that is often used to describe India, and it is perfectly illustrated in Rajasthan.The state is home to a variety of cultures and ethnic groups. It has a rich history and culture, which is reflected in its architecture, cuisine, and customs.Rajasthan's diversity is also evident in its geography. The state has deserts, mountains, and valleys. Its biodiversity is also reflected in its flora and fauna.Rajasthan's diversity attracts visitors from all over the world. People come to experience the state's beauty, culture, and diversity.Rajasthan's diversity is a source of pride for India. It is a place where people from all walks of life can come together and celebrate their differences.       Rajasthan is a land of rich culture and biodiversity. It is a destination for all kinds of travelers, from history buffs to art lovers to spiritual seekers.Art lovers will appreciate the unique arts and folk music of Rajasthan's villages. Spiritual seekers will find a sense of peace and tranquility in the streets of Ajmer.People seeking biodiversity and wilderness will walk through different land formations, including Ranthambore, Bharatpur, Sariska, Keoladeo National Park and Desert National Park.
     After a long hiatus due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I am finally planning to resume my trip to explore Indian landscapes and biodiversity .I will be visiting Rajasthan for 10 days in the first week of December. My main destinations are the Keoladeo National Park in Bharatpur and the Jhalana Leopard Reserve in Jaipur.
 

     Keoladeo National Park 


     Keoladeo National Park is one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world, and it is home to millions of birds throughout the year. Jhalana Leopard Reserve is a significant leopard habitat, and it is possible to spot a few leopards here.Both these places have amazing natural landscapes and diverse biodiversity. I was looking forward to experiencing all of these things in my trip.

Bharatpur landscape

                 Ever since wildlife photography became a passion of mine, my travels have turned to the wilderness and biodiversity hotspots. Now my travels are expeditions in search of my non-human companions, turning the camera lens towards their nimble and curious ways of life. Rajasthan is a hub of amazing biodiversity. From the Aravalli to the Thar desert, the state boasts a wide range of geomorphology, 5 premier national parks, including a UNESCO World Heritage Site, 3 tiger conservation reserves, and numerous biodiversity hotspots like Jhalana Tal Chhapar, and Jorbeer. And above all, the rare Desert National Park. 

         Bharatpur is known for its Keoladeo National Park, also known as the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary. The park is a 29-square-kilometer wetland, and is home to over 370 species of birds.Like many wildlife sanctuaries in India, Bharatpur was once a hunting ground. In the pre-independence era, hunting was a major pastime for Indian kings, princes, and other nobles. The wetland was once a hunting ground for the Maharaja of Bharatpur. It was later declared a bird sanctuary. It is said that Lord Linlithgow, the British Viceroy of India, hunted over 1,000 ducks in a single day here.In general, if we look at the picture of the Indian environmental scene, we can see a shift from hunting to environmental conservation. It is interesting to note that Kenneth Anderson, Jim Corbett, and Salim Ali, who guided the Indian environmental conservation field, were all excellent hunters.

        The Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, also known as Keoladeo National Park, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site . The park was created in the 18th century by Maharaja Surajmal of Bharatpur, who enclosed the temple of Keoladeo Mahadev and the surrounding wetlands. The park was declared a bird sanctuary in 1976, a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance in 1981, and a national park in 1982. The park was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1985.The Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary is one of the most important bird sanctuaries in the world. It is home to over 370 species of birds, including pelicans, flamingos, and cranes. The park is also an important stopover for migratory birds, which use the wetlands as a staging ground during their annual migrations. The park provides a home for a wide variety of birds, and it also helps to protect the local environment.

Morning mood

     After a 35-hour train journey, the train arrived at Bharatpur in a cold morning. It was 10 o'clock, but the cold was still biting. Bharatpur is an old station, and the railway station reminded me of an ancient building . However, there are signs of modernity. As soon as I got out, I was greeted by a group of rickshaw drivers. They took my bags and luggage and put them in the rickshaw. When I gave them the address of the hotel I had booked, they said something in Hindi that sounded like "I'll fix it now" and drove off. I started on my bird watching trip in Bharatpur.

The rickshaw and its amiable men 

   Bicycle rickshaws and bicycles are the safari vehicles in Bharatpur, as a precaution to avoid polluting the park's clean atmosphere. Fueled vehicles are not allowed inside the park, except for a few official vehicles which are granted exemptions. You can explore the park on foot, by bicycle or by rickshaw. Rickshaw pullers will welcome you at the park's gate. Rickshaw pullers are also excellent guides. They know about the diversity of birds in the park. If you need more specifics, expert guides are also available. Sher Singh was our lucky draw.Sher Singh is a Sikh who has been driving a rickshaw in the park for over 30 years. He proudly said that his parents migrated from Pakistan during the Partition of India. Sher Singh is a talkative and friendly person. He talked about the park and the birds in Hindi and excellent English during the journey. A bridge of friendship was built with Sher Singh in a short time. The conversation then turned to family, country, and culture. Every journey and every person you meet teaches you that the basic patterns and waves of human life are the same wherever you are in the world. This may be the concept of universal humanity that I read somewhere in the past. This is the same universal humanity that Tagore and others carried in their thoughts and dreams. 

Bharatpur railway station

 
With Sher Singh and his brother   


 

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 Bird heaven 

         In the next few days, Sher Singh's brother joined us. The park is like their own home to both of them, and they have been leading tourists to bird paradises here for over 30 years. We realized that they have taken very few days off during this period. They may have lived in this park more than in their home.With the spotted owlets, the colony of painted storks, , the flight of eagles   , the flocks of wild ducks, the fishing of the darter, the night jar, the , the kite, and the family of Sarus cranes, the three days in Bharatpur felt like we had reached one of the heavens on earth.

Night Jar
 


Darter ..Fishing mood



Spotted owlet

Spotted Owlet



       
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                 
 

Greylag goose




















































Sarus;The stars 

    Sarus cranes are the stars of the park. Although there are many species of birds in the park, the ultimate goal of most visitors is to see the three pairs of Sarus cranes that live there. We were also eager to see these majestic birds, which are critically endangered. There are only about 15,000 to 20,000 Sarus cranes left in the world, and most of them live in India. Sarus cranes are the tallest flying birds in the world, with a height of up to 5 feet. They are also known for their long, graceful necks and their beautiful red crowns.Sarus cranes are fascinating creatures. They are monogamous, meaning they mate for life. After the death of one partner, the other partner may die of grief. The behavior of Sarus cranes is a reminder that animals are not as simple as we may think. They are capable of complex emotions such as love, grief, and loss. We still have much to learn about the emotional lives of animals.


Sarus Family
Sarus crane with chick

          
       The more we learn about animals, the more we realize that they are not as different from us as we once thought. They are capable of the same range of emotions that we are, and they deserve our respect and compassion.Sarus cranes are highly revered in Indian culture. Our myths say that it was the grief of a kraunja bird couple, one of which was shot dead by a hunter named Ratnakaran, that inspired Valmiki to write the Ramayana and turned the hunter into a poet. It is said that the descendants of the kraunja that was shot dead that day are the Sarus cranes of today.It is interesting that myths are often formed from the biological
environment, especially in Indian conditions.


Plight of the big birds

        However, it is sad that these birds, who have been the owners of the earth since ancient times, are struggling for survival today. The number of Sarus cranes has been declining in recent years, and there are a number of reasons for this. One reason is that Sarus cranes need large, open areas to live, and these areas are becoming increasingly scarce due to human development. Another reason is that Sarus cranes are habitat destruction . Finally, Sarus cranes are also threatened by pollution and habitat destruction.There are a number of things that can be done to help save the Sarus crane. One thing is to create more protected areas for Sarus cranes to live. Another thing is to educate people about the importance of Sarus cranes and the threats they face. Finally, we can all do our part to reduce pollution and protect the environment.We all have a responsibility to protect the Sarus crane. If we all work together, we can help ensure that this beautiful bird survives for future generations.

        I was able to see two of the three pairs of Sarus cranes in Bharatpur National Park, including a pair with chicks, during my three-day stay. The park is a birdwatcher's paradise, and there are so many birds to see that it would take a lifetime to see them all. I was able to take some pictures of the birds, but I know that I only saw a small fraction of what the park has to offer.

Frames of Bharatpur  

 The changing seasons will paint the canvas of Bharatpur, and the birds, both visitors and locals, will change the rhythm of their jungle band and the melody of life accordingly. The shape and appearance of the ecosystem will change according to the nature of the seasons, and the animals will adjust their life rhythms accordingly. The living art that the animals perform to survive in harmony with their surroundings is what makes the surrounding biological world so beautiful and colorful. 
 
 
 
Spotted eagle waiting for prey


Pond heron
Blue bull with sarus

Birdscape...Mornings

Bharatpur morning








       



Spotted deer




          



  
 
 
 
  After three days in Bharatpur, we said goodbye to Sher Singh and his team. We had developed a close bond with them, and it was a little emotional to say goodbye. We were on our way to Jaipur to see the leopards in Jhalana leopard reserve. Sher Singh arranged for a taxi for us, and we thanked him for his hospitality.
Rana..the leopard

  

Jhalana ;The Urban Jungle

Jhalana is India's first leopard reserve. It is located 10 kilometers from Jaipur city. The 22 square kilometer forest area was declared a leopard reserve in 2017. There are currently 35 leopards and five cubs in the area. Apart from this, animals such as spotted deer, blue bull, striped hyena and sambar deer are also found here.
    Jhalana National Park is a mysterious place. It is surrounded by rugged cliffs and filled with hidden secrets. Visitors can expect to see amazing and surprising sights at any time. A leopard may suddenly dart out of the bushes, or it may be perched in a tree, watching us, or it may be soaring above the forest from the top of a cliff. Leopards are generally mysterious creatures. They can disappear in an instant, hide in the leaves of a nearby tree, and then dart out like lightning. They are masters of survival, and they have evolved to overcome the challenges of survival. However, they live in the shadow of tigers and lead a second-rate life. If philosophically speaking,leopards are a symbol of identity crisis to me." 




Leopards; the art of Survival

     Leopards are able to survive in almost any climate, which is why they can be found in a variety of habitats on all continents except Antarctica. They have a high degree of adaptability, which allows them to live in a wide range of environments, from dense rain forests to arid deserts. Leopards are also very successful hunters, and they can take down prey much larger than themselves.Tigers are often seen as a sign of a healthy forest ecosystem, as they require a large area of undisturbed habitat. Leopards, on the other hand, are able to survive in a wide range of conditions, including urban areas. This is due to their relatively small size and flexible body structure, which allow them to move quickly and hide easily. Leopards also have a long tail, which helps them maintain balance.I have been fortunate enough to see many tigers in my years of wildlife photography, but I have only rarely seen leopards. They are very shy animals, and they are often difficult to spot.
    Leopards are fascinating creatures, and I am always impressed by their ability to survive in such a variety of environments. They are a reminder that even in the most urbanized areas, there is still a wild world out there.
Leopards are able to survive in any climate. That is why they can be found in almost all ecosystems and different parts of the world. Their ability to adapt to any conditions is what allows them to be present in almost all biomes on Earth. Leopards can be found in the rain forests of Parambikulam and Wayanad, the grasslands of Africa, the snowy mountains of Siberia and the Himalayas, and the deserts of the Middle East.Tigers are a sign of a well-functioning forest ecosystem, meaning they are indicators of the health of the forest. Tigers need a well-functioning forest ecosystem to survive.Leopards, on the other hand, are a sign of the art of survival. They are able to adapt to any ecosystem, or to change their lifestyle according to the ecosystem. We can expect to see them in the depths of the dense forests and even in the city of Mumbai .Their relatively light body and flexible body structure allow them to move quickly and hide skillfully. The long tail also gives them good body balance. Such anatomical factors help leopards to bite and climb to the top of large trees, even heavier than themselves.
 
               Over the years of wild safaris, I have been able to see and photograph many tigers, from the forests of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Uttarakhand, and finally Kerala. But all the time, leopards hid like their innate habit. Leopards were averse to cameras, except for the rare occasion when the temple leopard in Kabini came in front of the camera.Leopards are a common sight in the Jhalna forest. Hemant's claim that there would be leopard sightings on every safari was proved to be true on the in the first safari itself, a cub leopard was hiding in the bushes. In the following days, the hero of Jhalna forest, Rana, a male leopard, appeared in front of the camera in many places on every safari. Hemant said that Rana is the most daring leopard in Jhalna. He walks with confidence and does not hesitate to walk in front of safari vehicles, like a tiger. His instinct to run away from humans has slowly started to disappear. Rana was seen with another leopard, but the presence of safari vehicles made it difficult to take pictures.Jhalana forest is a small forest, so safari vehicles can be seen everywhere. Drivers try to show visitors leopards, so they often come very close. This puts pressure on the leopard, and the sound of the vehicles can interfere with their hunting ability. 
 
However, the forest guards in Jhalna are working to protect the forest. They plant trees and create artificial water sources to ensure water availability. If these efforts are successful, Jhalna will become a great wildlife habitat.I believe that such small urban wildlife habitats will help to maintain the ecological balance of our planet in the future.
 
Blue bull pair

Blue bull a portrait

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
              
 
 
         
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I took a walk around Jaipur city before spending a few days in Jhalna. I walked through the ancient streets and saw the lives of the people on the streets. I also tasted the food there. In the future, I should prioritize Rajasthan in my travel plans. There are so many different sights to see. Travels do not end, do they? When I get a chance to take a break from the hustle and bustle of life, I should come back to these places. I should blend in with the green paths of biodiversity, the streets of cultural diversity, and the meditation paths of spiritual quest. When life ends one day, I should go to another world with self-satisfaction.

The Organic Lands of Rajasthan

                                Rajasthan,The land of diversity                         Every place has some images etched in th...